Our expectations were low, so we were pleasantly surprised. The Formosa has been around for ages, with its train car meets the Mann's Chinese theme and the bland Cal-Asian cuisine we have grown to expect. We were happy to report that it no longer smells like smoke or a urinal, as it tended to in its pre-remodel days. Allegedly, the Black Dahlia had a few cocktails here at one time, so along with Lee Marvin and the cast of the Love Boat, she was in lovely company.

We started with fried calamari, which was punk rock like Squid Vicious, with a nice mustard sauce to boot. Other appetizers to get: the beef satay was tender and yummy with marinated onions and cucumbers complimenting the sauce; spring rolls were tasty but skimpy. The seared ahi tuna salad was succulent, but the tuna entrée got mixed reviews for being too small and especially overcooked (ask for it rare). Gringa dug her shrimp with mustard sauce; mmm…caramelized pecans. The mashed potatoes and bok choy were universally loved (insider's tip: order them as sides for $3.50.) The Mongolian beef was as bland and uninteresting as yak jerkey and indistinguishable from cheap Chinese takeout; a rip-off at $10.95. Drink well and drink early--the martinis got discernibly awful after 9:30, when the bartenders start substituting industrial grade moonshine for gin. We forgot to sample their world famous mai-tais--so we don't know if they live up to the reputation. We must mention that the birthday surprise was fantastic. Fortune cookies, whipped cream and candles for Gusto and Corky…what a way to celebrate! The moral of this story: drinks and appetizers make the Formosa a place to go… after dinner.